Rally colors part 2 + some electric diagnostics

This is my struggle. No match. I'm leaning towards the Lacquer Red.

On the next picture, I've added the swatched with tape and no white just right from the spare wheel (the tubeless tire by the way, had to check if the 2,5" rim fitted, which it does), where the white line is. Still no match in broad daylight.

Over to option 2. The guy from VespaPaintCodes.com has emailed me back, and we've struck a deal for some red color codes translated from the Max Meyer codes. Off to the local paint shop.

But: The local paint shop couldn't mix the codes, even if they supply Dupont paint. They've obviously got another Dupont system. Dah. Running out of options here. When explaining my frustration to the paint shop clerk, he showed me a suitcase of red swatches, which they didn't show me the last time I was there. I was possibly saved!

Out of the suitcase I found the closest match in the red - orange flavour, and got a spraycan mixed.

This was a few days ago. Today, the tank lid was taken from the original tank and sandblasted in it's atomic parts, and both the lid and new tank got a fresh primer layer.  

The handlebar covers and some blind plugs received same treatment. As soon as the weather permits it, the parts will be painted. Hopefully tomorrow, as the parts must dry properly before installing them in the Rally again.

ELECTRIC UPDATE.

The electrics on the Rally confuses me. Since it's a battery model, the horn is 6V AC while the rest of the lights are 6V DC.

Up until now, the lights have in some way functioned, but the horn didn't. And there was no way of turning off the lights completely.

Short version: I've not been successful in finding the correct Rally wiring diagram. Several wiring diagrams exist, but not correspond to the one I have for some reason.

I've done some testing with the the wiring above, testing the functions by swapping the cables around.

The result so far: Switching the two cables providing the horn signal gave much better light, but the functions are not quite right yet. I'm not able to turn off the light. The speedo light is only working in one position; the wrong one by the way. The horn still doesn't work, when I've previously got it to work in one position etc.

I've ordered some new light control panels, as I think this unit might have been replaced with a wrong unit.

But: As far as getting the bike approved, this will hopefully only provide a punch which has to be corrected at a later stage. Only a couple of days left now...

Carburettor, stubborn fuel hose & some electrical...

The investigation continues. First off today was to have a look at the cylinder for leakages.

Cylinder cowling was removed, got some issues with the old, hard petrol tube, but managed to get it off in one piece.

Cylinder head was removed without any problems, visible oil stains around.

Same with cylinder. Some petrol was used to clean surfaces.

Cylinder walls feel OK. Due to the state of the cylinder, I did not feel it was neccessary to remove the cylinder completely.

The tank was removed for access to the petrol hose, which turned out to be tampered with. Previous owner obviously used what he had inhouse to fix the scooter. The old hose going to the carburettor was very stiff and was squeezed between the chassis and the cylinder cowling. Hose was removed completely, will be replaced with new.

When removing the carburettor, the complete inlet housing felt wobbly. And bingo: the screw for fastening the hosing to the motor wasn't tight. This could definetely cause the oil leakage, but can it also be the reason the scooter fails on high revs?

When removing the housing completely it is pretty apparent where the leakages have come from. (Screw attached for reference)

Thick layer of oily gravel on the carb housing, only one thing to do: Degrease & clean.

Surfaces after cleaning, now I need new gaskets.

The carb was splitted as well and given a clean in a petrol bath.

BE3 venturi and 118 jet. Bog standard.

Well, I need to order some gaskets before I get on with the mechanical side. As the gaskets need renewal and the carb is out anyway, I might as well do the gaskets on the carb too.

Electrical investigation continues. Headlamp connectors seem original, apart from the yellow fix.

According to the el schematics found on Scooterhelp the ignition lock should feature 8 different connectors. Mine only has 4. But as far as I can tell, the cabling has not been tampered with.

Which leaves me to suspect the panel to be tampered with. The part looks new, but I am not sure whether it has been replaced. I need the bike running for investigating further on this.

Good night.